Italian authorities have launched an investigation into Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics over the use of “marketing tricks” to sell adult cosmetics to children. The Italian Competition Council (AGCM) says that the marketing of beauty products to children can cause their growing desire to achieve “flawless” skin, called “cosmeticorexia,” which can put their health at risk.
AGCM calls LVMH’s marketing tactics “mostly deceptive.” Brands have worked with micro-influencers, who authorities say drive “forced purchases” to vulnerable people, including girls under 10.
LVMH is certified to Concepts of Personal Care that Sephora, Benefit, and LVMH P&C Italy have been informed of the investigation process opened by AGCM. The luxury goods conglomerate told us that it stores products “in accordance with the applicable Italian laws.”
“While the investigation is ongoing, Sephora, Benefit, and LVMH P&C Italy cannot provide any further comments at this time, however, they express their willingness to fully cooperate with the authorities.”
AGCM examines the marketing of age-inappropriate products such as anti-aging creams, face masks, and serums to young girls. It cites concerns that important information about the safety of product use for children “may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner.”
Concepts of Personal Care AGCM was also contacted, which declined to comment.
“Cosmeticorexia”; all the rage
The rise of cosmeticorexia is linked to children’s preoccupation with flawless skin.
Article of the Italian National Institute of Health, published in Dermatology and Therapy, defines cosmeticorexia as “an intense preoccupation or obsession with achieving flawless skin that can lead to excessive, inappropriate or compulsive use of cosmetic products and procedures.”
This article points to the spread of this process due to the growth of the cosmeceutical market and beauty issues driven by social networks, which are aimed at growing groups of young people.
This word is one of the new editions of ongoing concerns about the role of the beauty industry in approaching children as a demographic.
The investigation isn’t the first time a beauty retailer has come under fire for children’s growing use of cosmetics. In 2024, social media exploded with complaints of “Sephora kids,” a wave of kids using makeup and skin care, so they’re seen at the retailer.
Children’s increasingly experimental attitude toward makeup has raised concerns among dermatologists and other skin care professionals. Scientific review, Dermatological Safety of Cosmetic Products Formulated for Children: Insights on the Sephora Kids Phenomenon, published in J Drug Dermatol, refers to the “noticeable skin challenges” in children’s frequent use of cosmetics and skin care products.
The paper examines the effects of retinol, exfoliating acids (AHA and BHA), and vitamin C on children’s skin. It concludes that the latest literature and FDA-approved guidelines indicate that chemicals have not been adequately tested on children’s skin. According to the analysis, children who use products without medical supervision can have many negative effects on their skin health, such as skin redness, irritation, increased sensitivity to the sun or dermatitis.
In addition to dermatological risks to children’s skin, parents and mental health professionals are raising concerns about long-term effects on self-esteem and self-image.
“The message it sends to little girls is that they shouldn’t age and look like they’re never older than 8 years old. This is wrong and very dangerous for little girls,” read a comment on last year’s launch of Rini, a skin care brand designed specifically for children.
Internet discussion has highlighted the inappropriate aspects of marketing to children. Some members of the beauty industry have called for an industry-wide strike on the issue of mainstream marketing to children.
Legalizing the “kids of Sephora”
Concerns are increasing due to the effect of age-appropriate cosmetics on children’s health.
The Italian investigation is one of a growing number of top-down legal provisions in the private sector of personal care on child safety.
Last year, California Assembly member Alex Lee introduced a bill to ban the use of anti-aging products in children, citing the effectiveness of well-intentioned brand claims.
“Kids don’t need anti-aging products.” The beauty industry knows that, and some companies have embraced it. But their statements – there is no real and reasonable action – are ineffective and lack responsible behavior,” Lee said. Concepts of Personal Care.
Similarly, skin care brand Mantle prevented younger consumers from buying their products by displaying an age rating on their websites. Meanwhile, Sweden’s largest private company, Apotek Hjärtat, has banned consumers under the age of 15 from buying skin care products in stores.
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